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Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now. I've recently run out of some basing sand I've had a while, So I went down to my local store and bought some more, It was only when I got home when I noticed that the sand is totally different, it's all dead fine now when the old stuff used to actually look like real earth which slightly larger stones.
Whats happened to it? If they have discontinued it, can anyone reconmend a new type of stuff? You can see the difference in one of my pictures, The mode at the front has the new sand I bought and the models behind have the old sand. No matter how advanced the defenses may be, there is always an open serial port somewhere that can be pluged into and a firewall that was never configured. I can't really see the base upon your model, but I think I know what you mean.
I had basing material from 3rd ed that seemed to be cork, but now have changed to actual sand. You should try to get some from Gale Force 9 basing grit, it seems closest. I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member.
Buy another bag of sand with larger grains or from play ground for free mix the 2 together? The 'Cut. You guys buy sand? Wall filler, preferably quick drying kind. I use Selleys Spakfilla Rapid. Take a moment to consider how nice the sky looks outside. Seriously, just look for a second, empty your mind of your thoughts and take it all it with a few deep breaths. Fresh, unpainted bases. This will be called something different in other places. Apply it with a suitable tool, I use an old knife blade which is dangerous and stupid, I suggest an old brush would be safer and more effective.
Rust optional. The spak provides the body to our base, allowing the texture paint, ink and dry brushing to do more effective work. The key here is to leave a good area flat area for your models to stand on, then some interesting shapes as required.
Crackle Crackle. Put in a fair bit. The Stirland Mud adds a fine layer of grittiness while the Agrellan Earth provides as sweet crackle effect, if you put the Agrellan Earth on curing SPAK you get bigger more impressive cracks. The thickness plays a big role in the texture paint effects.
I took a shot of freshly applied texture paint so you can see the thickness I used on these. Eat them to find out. Do a nice, light coat. You could honestly stop here. If you like giving up that is. Layer is a bit of a misnomer for this step, what we are aiming for is a extremely heavy drybrush.
Leave some of the black in there. Apply it. Apply it ALL. Seriously look:. Go for a less extreme dry brush this time, leaving plenty of the inky goodness coming though. Dry brushing is not a crime. Try about 1 part Iraqi to 9 parts brown and give it a whirl. By whirl I mean a standard drybrush. And there. Drop the model on with your fave superglue. I suggest doing a dry run with bluetak to figure out which base will suit each model before committing with the superglue. After the glue is dry finish off the entire model by painting the base rim with Vallejo Black Grey.
Congrats if you have followed the tute up to this step. Your model is done. You and it are great. Go celebrate this greatness! I prefer to make things as simple as possible so I can move on to the next model. My desert bases are more of the Atacama variety, owing to the way I do them. I start by basing the model on the base black, then I cover the base liberally with Agrellan Earthshade, the aforementioned Games Workshop Texture paint.
My basing toolkit includes fine sand, coarse sand, sifted fine gravel, and pieces of sandstone. The sandstone is from fairly common landscaping material at least in the United States. I happened to have some in my yard and a 6 year old who enjoyed smashing it to bits but I have seen similar material weathering the same way around homes and businesses. Weathering causes thin layers of various thickness to separate from larger pieces.
It can be easily snapped by hand and metal tools can quickly wear down the edges for shaping. I used this technique to base my Darkoath Chieftan. My idea was to have him standing on a rocky ledge next to a dry creek bed.
The base size here is 50mm. To begin I roughly laid out sandstone pieces and snapped a long down the middle for a nice crack, then ground down the edges with pliers to simulate erosion. The stone was glued down with superglue and the gaps between stones were filled with greenstuff. Then laid out where I wanted sand and tufts before glueing them down. These tufts are Army Painter highland tufts. Small bits of gravel were added in front bottom area and on the greenstuff with superglue.
Sand was put down with PVA glue over the green stuff and also under the ledge and around the bits of gravel. Then agrellan earth was spread across the front area that was still bare base. For my desert-themed Skaven, I needed a quick and simple base that I could produce en masse. Something easy to create in giant batches, while still looking good individually and cohesive when viewed at a distance.
After quite a bit of experimentation, I found my recipe of choice. Skaven Clanrats Credit: Pendulin. As I mentioned, this is a fantastic horde base. See my post on 3D printing bases.
Why do I think these are the best alternatives to citadel texture paint? In general, these are easy to find at any arts and crafts store or online. They come in huge buckets or containers, and are inexpensive for what you get. Unlike the conventional workflow that you might use, glue, sand, etc. The following are more thoughts on each of the two types of alternative mediums you can use instead of Citadel Texture Paints.
Any local hardware or home improvement store sells sanded tile grout. You can also get it online here. The cool part about premixed sanded tile grout is that it already has the adhesive mixed into it.
You might want a palette knife to smooth it on. Or you can use a plastic spoon. But a good metal palette knife will work best because the grout can be a bit thick. Premixed sanded tile grout comes in many colors.
For example, you can buy an ivory colored grout for sand bases, or a white colored grout for snow bases. The neat part about sanded tile grout is that it dries fast. In less than an hour, sanded tile grout can take primer and paint.
So you can quickly go from basing your models to other tasks. The other type of Citadel Texture Paint effect is crack earth or ground. This is particularly easy to do with the Citadel Texture Paint. Except you need to apply it onto the base in a thick layer. As advertised, the medium is a simple paste that cracks when it dries. Crackle Paste like the Citadel Texture Paint works best when applied in thick layers. When the medium dries, the surface cracks. I noticed that for durability with using this crackle paste, it helps if you apply a thin layer of watered down PVA white glue.
I love experimenting with different artistic mediums. Works well — fast, easy, and inexpensive! How do you base your models? Do you like Citadel Texture Paints? Let me know with a comment below! I have more thoughts and editorial articles here. Subscribe through email or follow us on Facebook and Instagram.
Free newsletter with monthly updates no spam. Leave a comment below! Follow on Twitter , Instagram , and Facebook. So, crackle medium. How easy does it take paint. Glue first or paint first. Can you add paint or inks to the paste before pasting onto your base. You have me Intrigued. It takes paint really well.
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